Big Macks 3D

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3D printer accessories

Gear for the machine itself — filament handling, tooling, and the small fixes that make a printer easier to live with. Parametric where it matters, and every part posed to print support-free.

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Filament Winder Tower

Rewind, split, and rescue filament by hand. Gearing from 1:1 to 2:1, built around the spools you actually own.

Filament arrives on the wrong reel. Tangles want rewinding under tension, 2 kg rolls want halving before they will sit in a dry box, and an orphaned end deserves a smaller spool rather than the bin.

Crank it. Pick gearing anywhere from 1:1 to 2:1 — quick and firm, or slow and kind to your wrist — and the handle relocates to suit. The spindle lifts out of an open channel, so swapping reels takes seconds.

FROM $6.00

Filament Spool Stand

Let the spool spin. Choose between 1 kg or 2 kg reels.

A reel that drags costs you something on every layer. Rather than resting on a bar, the spool is gripped between two threaded cones that pull it true on its own hub — a 250 g sample or a wide 2 kg reel, any boss from Ø41 to Ø66.

The shaft drops into open slots and gives line the moment it is asked. It stands level with our Filament Winder and shares the very same printed cone.

FROM $3.00

Filament Winder

Filament goes where you put it, at the pace your hand sets.

The spool sits between two threaded cones on a spindle carried at both ends, so it runs true instead of wobbling off a stub axle. The crank drives it through a printed gear train whose ratio you pick when you order — 1:1 when you want feel, up to 2:1 when there is a lot of filament to move.

The spindle lifts straight out of its open slots, loaded, so changing what you are winding onto is a lift rather than a strip-down. What you wind, and what you wind it from, is yours to arrange: the machine turns a spool steadily, in front of you, and stays out of the way of the rest.

One thing worth knowing before you print it: this is a light machine, and a full spool carries real inertia. Stand it on something grippy, or keep a hand on the frame while you crank.

FROM $3.00

Parametric Filament Spool

A sturdy screw-together spool for re-winding filament — free, in three sizes.

Cardboard sags, cracks, and sheds dust into your feed path; refills and sample coils arrive with no spool at all. Print a rigid one instead — wind onto the hub, screw the two halves shut over the coil, and it drops onto any holder you own.

A single 55 mm bore serves all three sizes, so a 250 g sample and a 2 kg reel run on the same rod. Both halves print flange-down, unsupported. Free.

FREE

Add your printer

We size every model to your printer, so we need to know how big it can print. It’ll be saved for the next person with the same machine.

These are the printable sizes — the biggest part your printer can actually make, the numbers your slicer shows as the build volume. Not the bed or the removable plate, which are usually a little bigger.

Optional — build plate and printer-stand measurements

The build plate is the removable sheet you pop prints off; it’s usually a little bigger than the printable area. A plate rack is cut to the sheet, not the bed.

A printer stand is built around your printer’s feet. Give us all four and we can build you one — or skip them and add them later. Measure the BASE — the slab it stands on — not the machine’s widest point. Gantry legs, Z columns and X arms usually overhang the base and hold up nothing.

Where to measure your printer's feet Looking down on the printer's base with the front at the bottom. A is the full width of the base across the front. B is the diameter of one foot. C is from the base's front edge back to the center of the front foot. D is from the base's side edge in to that same center. FRONT rear feet — not needed A D C B
Looking down on the base, front at the bottom.

Choose your colors

Every model on the site opens in these three. Primary is the largest surface, secondary the part that contrasts with it, and tertiary the accent — feet, trim, the parts that tie it together.