Big Macks 3D

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Filament Winder Tower

Filament Winder Tower

Rewind, split, and rescue filament by hand. Gearing from 1:1 to 2:1, built around the spools you actually own.

FROM $6.00

A geared, hand-cranked winder for moving filament from one spool to another — rescuing a tangled spool, splitting a 2 kg roll into usable 1 kg ones, or salvaging what is left on a part-used reel. Sixteen snap-together parts, no fasteners, and every one prints support-free.

Configure & buy

Filament arrives on the wrong reel. Tangles want rewinding under tension, 2 kg rolls want halving before they will sit in a dry box, and an orphaned end deserves a smaller spool rather than the bin.

Crank it. Pick gearing anywhere from 1:1 to 2:1 — quick and firm, or slow and kind to your wrist — and the handle relocates to suit. The spindle lifts out of an open channel, so swapping reels takes seconds.

Highlights

Gearing you choose

1:1 to 2:1, in five steps. Fewest turns at one end, easiest cranking at the other.

250 g to 2 kg

Threaded cones self-center and clamp any hub from Ø41 to Ø66, at any width down to nothing.

Right- or left-handed

Pick your cranking hand and the whole machine mirrors to suit it.

Tool-free spool changes

The pickup spindle lifts straight out of its channel — no bearings, no fasteners, nothing to undo.

Support-free everywhere

All sixteen parts arrive already posed to print clean, with no supports anywhere.

Illustrated assembly guide

A step-by-step PDF with every part named and rendered, so it goes together right the first time.

Carry our logo, pay less

Embossed saves 50¢, a 3-color inlay saves $1.00. It prints into the base, face up.

Gallery

This shows the 1 kg spool version with the tensioning brake. The brake adds a little (or a lot) drag to the supply spool. The tension helps the filament wind a little tighter on the pickup spool.
This shows the 1 kg spool version with the tensioning brake. The brake adds a little (or a lot) drag to the supply spool. The tension helps the filament wind a little tighter on the pickup spool.
Winder stand with tension brake.
Winder stand with tension brake.
Winder stand with tension brake
Winder stand with tension brake
Mid-rescue render: filament runs off a cardboard spool in the tower and onto a printed Filament Spool below
Mid-rescue render: filament runs off a cardboard spool in the tower and onto a printed Filament Spool below
Exploded view that flies the parts together in assembly manual order.

Configure & buy

In your download

  • Print-ready 3MF platesEvery part laid out on plates packed to your printer's bed and sorted by filament color — open in your slicer and go.
  • Every STLThe individual part meshes as well, if you'd rather arrange the plates yourself.
  • A parts listA manifest of every part and how many of each, so you know exactly what you're printing.
  • An assembled 3D model in your colorsThe whole thing built and colored the way you configured it — your reference while you print and put it together.
  • An illustrated assembly guideA step-by-step PDF, grouped so you build one color at a time, naming every part.

Configure your winder

Colors
PrimarySecondaryTertiary

We'd love it if you could help get the Big Mack's word out! Embossed cuts the mark into the surface, prints on any printer. 3-color prints it in our red, white and black and needs a multi-filament printer.

Price: $6.00 (one licensed file — $1.00 off for carrying our logo)

Click “Update 3D preview” to render your configuration in 3D.

Add your printer

We size every model to your printer, so we need to know how big it can print. It’ll be saved for the next person with the same machine.

These are the printable sizes — the biggest part your printer can actually make, the numbers your slicer shows as the build volume. Not the bed or the removable plate, which are usually a little bigger.

Optional — build plate and printer-stand measurements

The build plate is the removable sheet you pop prints off; it’s usually a little bigger than the printable area. A plate rack is cut to the sheet, not the bed.

A printer stand is built around your printer’s feet. Give us all four and we can build you one — or skip them and add them later. Measure the BASE — the slab it stands on — not the machine’s widest point. Gantry legs, Z columns and X arms usually overhang the base and hold up nothing.

Where to measure your printer's feet Looking down on the printer's base with the front at the bottom. A is the full width of the base across the front. B is the diameter of one foot. C is from the base's front edge back to the center of the front foot. D is from the base's side edge in to that same center. FRONT rear feet — not needed A D C B
Looking down on the base, front at the bottom.

Choose your colors

Every model on the site opens in these three. Primary is the largest surface, secondary the part that contrasts with it, and tertiary the accent — feet, trim, the parts that tie it together.