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Door Pull Drill Guide

Door Pull Drill Guide

Put every cabinet pull and knob in the same spot on every door, drilled straight.

FREE

Choose your pull's screw spacing (3", 96, 128 or 160 mm) or a single-hole knob, and how far in from the door's edge the holes go: 1", 1 1/8" or 1 1/4". The guide hooks over the door's edge, clamps in place and guides the bit through solid plastic.

Configure & download — free

Hook the lip over the edge of the door, line the center notch up with your pencil mark, clamp it and drill. The holes land the right distance from the edge and the right distance apart on every door, so a whole kitchen of pulls lines up.

The guide holes are half an inch long, so the bit cannot wander or tilt, and a groove where the lip meets the face lets the guide seat tight against an eased edge. Each guide is labeled with its spacing and distance in inches and millimeters.

Highlights

Every door the same

The lip sets the distance from the edge, so each pull lands in the same place.

Straight holes

A half inch of guide keeps the bit square to the door.

Your hardware

Pulls at 3", 96, 128 or 160 mm, or a single-hole knob.

Clamps flat

Both faces are flat, so a wood clamp holds it anywhere clear of the holes.

Configure & download

In your download

  • Print-ready 3MF platesEvery part laid out on plates packed to your printer's bed and sorted by filament color — open in your slicer and go.
  • Every STLThe individual part meshes as well, if you'd rather arrange the plates yourself.
  • A parts listA manifest of every part and how many of each, so you know exactly what you're printing.
  • An assembled 3D model in your colorsThe whole thing built and colored the way you configured it — your reference while you print and put it together.

Configure your drill guide

Pull spacing is measured center to center between the two screws. Each guide is labeled with its spacing and distance in inches and millimeters, so a drawer full of them stays sorted.

Color

Price: FREE

Click “Update 3D preview” to see your guide in 3D.

Add your printer

We size every model to your printer, so we need to know how big it can print. It’ll be saved for the next person with the same machine.

These are the printable sizes — the biggest part your printer can actually make, the numbers your slicer shows as the build volume. Not the bed or the removable plate, which are usually a little bigger.

Optional — build plate and printer-stand measurements

The build plate is the removable sheet you pop prints off; it’s usually a little bigger than the printable area. A plate rack is cut to the sheet, not the bed.

A printer stand is built around your printer’s feet. Give us all four and we can build you one — or skip them and add them later. Measure the BASE — the slab it stands on — not the machine’s widest point. Gantry legs, Z columns and X arms usually overhang the base and hold up nothing.

Where to measure your printer's feet Looking down on the printer's base with the front at the bottom. A is the full width of the base across the front. B is the diameter of one foot. C is from the base's front edge back to the center of the front foot. D is from the base's side edge in to that same center. FRONT rear feet — not needed A D C B
Looking down on the base, front at the bottom.

My printers

Every model is sized to the printer doing the printing, and the logo and engraved sizes come as color inlays only where you can print them. The one at the top is the one new configurations start on — pick any row to make it that.

Adding one is the same picker: choose it in My Printer, or .

Choose your colors

Every model on the site opens in these three. Primary is the largest surface, secondary the part that contrasts with it, and tertiary the accent — feet, trim, the parts that tie it together.