Big Macks 3D

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Round Art Display Stand

Round Art Display Stand

Give it the diameter and depth of your piece; the stand is solved from that.

$1.00

An arch that holds a round piece up at an angle you can see it from. Tell it the diameter and the depth of your plate, bowl or panel and the whole stand is solved from those two numbers -- the slot is your piece's own outline, cut on the lean.

Configure & buy

Round work is awkward to display. Lean it against something and it slides; lay it flat and nobody sees it. This holds a plate, a bowl, or a stained glass roundel upright and tipped back, in a slot cut to the piece itself.

The slot is not a size, it is your piece. The stand is built by taking a disc the width and thickness of what you are showing, tipping it back by the lean you chose, and cutting that shape out of a semicircular arch. So the slot follows the outline of the piece rather than approximating it, and the arch is sized in proportion to the piece rather than to a size chart.

The front is open on purpose. The lean is what holds the piece back — gravity does the work — so the front of the arch is cut away to short stubs that stop it sliding forward, and nothing crosses in front of the thing you are trying to look at. A brace across the base ties the feet. Prefer the closed arch? That is one dropdown.

The wedge behind the slot is solved, not styled: a fixed wall survives in front of and behind your piece at every height, and the rear is pushed out as far as it takes to keep the loaded stand from tipping — checked for any weight of piece, since we do not know if yours is glass or earthenware.

Highlights

The slot is your piece

Diameter and depth are the whole specification. The slot is cut from your piece's own outline, reclined, not from a size chart.

Open front, by design

The lean holds the piece back, so the front is cut to short stubs and nothing crosses in front of the work. Closed arch available.

Tips back 0-15 degrees

Upright for a shallow plate, leaning for a deep bowl. The stand re-solves around whatever you choose.

It will not tip

The rear is extended as far as the balance needs, and the check holds for any weight of piece -- glass, ceramic or resin.

One piece, no assembly

It prints as a single part with a flat foot. Nothing to glue, nothing to snap together.

Coaster to charger platter

40 mm through 400 mm across, and 2 mm through 250 mm deep.

Configure & buy

In your download

  • Print-ready 3MF platesEvery part laid out on plates packed to your printer's bed and sorted by filament color — open in your slicer and go.
  • Every STLThe individual part meshes as well, if you'd rather arrange the plates yourself.
  • A parts listA manifest of every part and how many of each, so you know exactly what you're printing.
  • An assembled 3D model in your colorsThe whole thing built and colored the way you configured it — your reference while you print and put it together.

Configure your stand

A deep bowl wants a few degrees of lean; a flat plate is happy upright. The lean is what lets the front stay open — gravity holds the piece back against the arch, and the stubs only stop it sliding forward.

Color
PrimarySecondaryTertiary

Price: $1.00

Click “Update 3D preview” to render your configuration in 3D.
How would you like it?

Add your printer

We size every model to your printer, so we need to know how big it can print. It’ll be saved for the next person with the same machine.

These are the printable sizes — the biggest part your printer can actually make, the numbers your slicer shows as the build volume. Not the bed or the removable plate, which are usually a little bigger.

Optional — build plate and printer-stand measurements

The build plate is the removable sheet you pop prints off; it’s usually a little bigger than the printable area. A plate rack is cut to the sheet, not the bed.

A printer stand is built around your printer’s feet. Give us all four and we can build you one — or skip them and add them later. Measure the BASE — the slab it stands on — not the machine’s widest point. Gantry legs, Z columns and X arms usually overhang the base and hold up nothing.

Where to measure your printer's feet Looking down on the printer's base with the front at the bottom. A is the full width of the base across the front. B is the diameter of one foot. C is from the base's front edge back to the center of the front foot. D is from the base's side edge in to that same center. FRONT rear feet — not needed A D C B
Looking down on the base, front at the bottom.

Choose your colors

Every model on the site opens in these three. Primary is the largest surface, secondary the part that contrasts with it, and tertiary the accent — feet, trim, the parts that tie it together.