Big Macks 3D

← Back to catalog

Stained Glass Angle Jigs

Stained Glass Angle Jigs

The fourth form in the layout system, and the first that leaves the page. The others set where an edge goes; these set how far it stands up.

$6.99

Polygonal forms that hold flat glass at a fixed angle while you solder it, for flowers, butterfly wings and rosettes. Pick the number of petals, the size and the angles you work in; the whole set bolts into one stack.

Configure & buy

Every other form in this system answers the same question: where does the edge of the panel go. These answer the one that leaves the page — how far does each piece stand up. A jig is a shallow polygonal funnel with flat facets falling to a common centre, so the pieces you lay in it all rise at exactly the same angle and meet cleanly along every seam.

The number on the jig is the angle the glass actually sits at. Not the cone angle, not the fold between pieces — the dip of the facet, which is what a protractor laid along a petal reads. On six facets those differ by fifteen percent, so it is worth being exact about which one you are buying.

The whole set bolts into one stack. A post runs through the middle, a keyed head screws in underneath and a knob clamps it down on top. There is no case because there is nothing to put in one: assembled is how it lives on the shelf and how it comes out of the box. The post is cut to the same number of sides as your jigs, so every piece of glass butts squarely against one flat face.

Metric or imperial, in three sizes each. Three, four, five, six, seven or eight facets. Six is a six-petal flower; two adjacent facets of a four is a butterfly's wings; eight is a rosette. Take all seven angles, or the round numbers, or the halves — the two half-sets partition the full ladder exactly, so buying one of each completes the set with nothing duplicated.

Every jig carries its own angle embossed on two faces, proud rather than engraved, so it reads on a shelf and prints without a pocket to fill.

Highlights

The number is the glass angle

The dip of the facet, which is what a protractor on the petal reads — not the cone angle it is easy to mistake it for.

Three to eight facets

Six for a six-petal flower, four for butterfly wings, eight for a rosette. The petal count is yours to pick.

Bolts into one stack

Post, keyed head and clamping knob. Assembled is the storage, so there is no case to lose and nothing to pack away.

The post matches your jigs

A five-sided kit gets a five-sided post, so each piece of glass butts flat against one face instead of straddling a corner.

Seven angles, 10 to 40 degrees

In five degree steps. Take the whole ladder or either half — the halves partition it exactly, with nothing repeated.

Metric or imperial

90, 120 and 150 mm, or 3½, 4¾ and 6 in across corners. Units change the size ladder and nothing else — an angle reads the same in both.

Embossed angles

Raised on two faces of every jig. Reads at a glance on a shelf, and prints with no pocket to fill.

Configure & buy

In your download

  • Print-ready 3MF platesEvery part laid out on plates packed to your printer's bed and sorted by filament color — open in your slicer and go.
  • Every STLThe individual part meshes as well, if you'd rather arrange the plates yourself.
  • A parts listA manifest of every part and how many of each, so you know exactly what you're printing.
  • An assembled 3D model in your colorsThe whole thing built and colored the way you configured it — your reference while you print and put it together.

Configure your kit

How many pieces

Each facet is a bed for one piece of glass, so facets = petals. Six is a six-petal flower; two adjacent facets of a four is a butterfly’s wings; eight is a rosette. Size is measured across corners — 90, 120 or 150 mm, or 3½, 4¾ or 6 in. The usable bed is — per petal, because a triangle gives away a lot more of its width to its own corners than an octagon does. Units change the size ladder and nothing else — what is engraved on a jig is an angle, and 30° is 30° either way.

Angles

The number on a jig is the angle the glass actually sits at — the slope of the facet, which is what a protractor laid along a petal reads. You get 7 jigs plus the post, head and knob that bolt them together. The round numbers and the in-betweens split the full set exactly, so buying one of each completes it with nothing repeated.

Printer

Your printer does not change the jigs — every one is a single piece at every size. What it can change is the post, which prints standing up, so a tall kit needs the build height to match. If it does not, the kit is built as two stacks with a post each rather than being refused — split by alternate angles, so neither stack is all-shallow or all-steep and both are half the height. You get one more post, head and knob; every jig is unchanged.

Storage

There is no case, because the set is its own case. A post runs through the middle of every jig, a keyed head screws in underneath and a knob clamps the stack down on top — assembled is how it lives on the shelf and how it comes out of the box.

Colors
PrimarySecondaryTertiary

The stack alternates between your first two colors, top jig first, so a bolted set reads as seven jigs rather than one tall block. The post, head and knob take the third.

The angle is engraved 0.8 mm into two faces of every jig and filled with the other jig color — a black jig gets white numerals, the white jig above it black ones. That is real contrast on every jig for no extra filament. On a single-filament printer the pockets are cut just the same and no inlays are shipped, so the numbers read as cut lettering rather than as nothing at all.

Price: $6.99

Click “Update 3D preview” to see your stack in 3D.
How would you like it?

Add your printer

We size every model to your printer, so we need to know how big it can print. It’ll be saved for the next person with the same machine.

These are the printable sizes — the biggest part your printer can actually make, the numbers your slicer shows as the build volume. Not the bed or the removable plate, which are usually a little bigger.

Optional — build plate and printer-stand measurements

The build plate is the removable sheet you pop prints off; it’s usually a little bigger than the printable area. A plate rack is cut to the sheet, not the bed.

A printer stand is built around your printer’s feet. Give us all four and we can build you one — or skip them and add them later. Measure the BASE — the slab it stands on — not the machine’s widest point. Gantry legs, Z columns and X arms usually overhang the base and hold up nothing.

Where to measure your printer's feet Looking down on the printer's base with the front at the bottom. A is the full width of the base across the front. B is the diameter of one foot. C is from the base's front edge back to the center of the front foot. D is from the base's side edge in to that same center. FRONT rear feet — not needed A D C B
Looking down on the base, front at the bottom.

My printers

Every model is sized to the printer doing the printing, and the logo and engraved sizes come as color inlays only where you can print them. The one at the top is the one new configurations start on — pick any row to make it that.

Adding one is the same picker: choose it in My Printer, or .

Choose your colors

Every model on the site opens in these three. Primary is the largest surface, secondary the part that contrasts with it, and tertiary the accent — feet, trim, the parts that tie it together.