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Stained Glass Layout System - Ovals

Stained Glass Layout System - Ovals

Set the biggest oval panel you'd like to build; the kit composes every size up to it. Longest pieces sized to fit your printer.

$7.00

Snap-together segments that hold a true ellipse while you build it. Pick a proportion and the smallest and largest width you work in, and the kit solves every size between.

Configure & buy

An oval is the shape most likely to come out looking like a mistake. Freehand it and one end is fatter than the other; approximate it with arcs and the joins show as flat spots. These are the forms that hold a real one: flat segments that snap end to end into a closed ellipse you can build against, in the same 15 mm band and on the same clip as the straight bars and the round arcs.

The width is a number the rest of the system knows. Each oval breaks at its own axes, so it comes apart across the middle into two halves exactly its width apart — and those butt straight onto a half-round of the same diameter, or a straight run of the same length. An oval is not an island in the kit.

You do not pick a piece list. You choose a proportion, say the smallest and largest width you want, and the kit is solved from that. Each oval is split into as many pieces as your printer's bed calls for — four while a quarter still prints, then eight, and more on a small bed — so a big oval arrives in more pieces rather than not arriving at all.

Metric or imperial, and both interchange with the other two kits. Every piece carries its own oval's size, engraved deep enough to take a second color.

Highlights

Three proportions

4:5, 3:4 and 2:3, each with its own ladder of sizes so both dimensions always come out whole.

You set the range, not the parts

Say the smallest and largest width you build and the kit is solved from it.

The inside size is exact

Each facet sits tangent to the nominal ellipse, so a 300 mm width measures 300, never under.

Split to fit your printer

Four pieces, or eight, or more on a small bed. A smaller bed buys more pieces, never less reach.

Engraved sizes, two-color ready

Every piece is labelled 0.8 mm deep with a matching flush inlay.

Configure & buy

In your download

  • Print-ready 3MF platesEvery part laid out on plates packed to your printer's bed and sorted by filament color — open in your slicer and go.
  • Every STLThe individual part meshes as well, if you'd rather arrange the plates yourself.
  • A parts listA manifest of every part and how many of each, so you know exactly what you're printing.
  • An assembled 3D model in your colorsThe whole thing built and colored the way you configured it — your reference while you print and put it together.

Configure your kit

Units

This sets the size ladder and what is engraved on each piece. It interchanges with the other two kits: same clip, same 15 mm band, same 4.5 mm thickness, so an oval snaps onto a curve or a bar.

Proportion

A true ellipse, not the four-centre approximation — no flat spots down the flanks and no curvature jump where arcs would meet. Each proportion has its own ladder of sizes, chosen so that both dimensions always come out whole.

Range of ovals you want

These are inside sizes — the opening you build inside, not the outside of the band. You get 10 complete ovals, every size from the smallest to the largest. The width is the number that meets the rest of the system: an oval comes apart across its middle into two halves exactly its width apart, and those butt onto a half-round of that diameter or a straight run of that length.

Printer

Case

Every kit comes with its case, and the case is solved from the kit rather than picked — sized so the biggest piece lies down inside it with room to be put away by hand, not just to the millimetre it would fit at a perfect angle. A wide range comes in more than one box, split by size, and each lid says what is in it. The hinge prints in place and comes off the plate already working.

Colors
PrimarySecondaryTertiary

The size engraved on each piece is a flush inlay, 0.8 mm deep with its own part — so on a multi-filament printer the numbers come out in the second color. On a single-extruder printer, print the segments and skip the inlays: the engraving still reads.

Price: $7.00

Click “Update 3D preview” to see your ovals in 3D.
How would you like it?

Add your printer

We size every model to your printer, so we need to know how big it can print. It’ll be saved for the next person with the same machine.

These are the printable sizes — the biggest part your printer can actually make, the numbers your slicer shows as the build volume. Not the bed or the removable plate, which are usually a little bigger.

Optional — build plate and printer-stand measurements

The build plate is the removable sheet you pop prints off; it’s usually a little bigger than the printable area. A plate rack is cut to the sheet, not the bed.

A printer stand is built around your printer’s feet. Give us all four and we can build you one — or skip them and add them later. Measure the BASE — the slab it stands on — not the machine’s widest point. Gantry legs, Z columns and X arms usually overhang the base and hold up nothing.

Where to measure your printer's feet Looking down on the printer's base with the front at the bottom. A is the full width of the base across the front. B is the diameter of one foot. C is from the base's front edge back to the center of the front foot. D is from the base's side edge in to that same center. FRONT rear feet — not needed A D C B
Looking down on the base, front at the bottom.

Choose your colors

Every model on the site opens in these three. Primary is the largest surface, secondary the part that contrasts with it, and tertiary the accent — feet, trim, the parts that tie it together.