Big Macks 3D

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Stained Glass Layout System - Rounds

Stained Glass Layout System - Rounds

Set the biggest round panel you would like to build; the kit composes every size up to it. Longest pieces sized to fit your printer.

$7.00

Snap-together arc segments that hold a true circle while you build it. Pick the smallest and largest round you work in and the kit solves every size between, so one box lays out a whole range of circles.

Configure & buy

A circle is the hardest thing to eyeball and the easiest thing to get wrong. These are the forms that hold one: flat arc segments that snap end to end into a ring you can build against, in the same 15 mm band and on the same clip as the straight bars.

The number on the segment is the opening you get. There are no corners to add anything — each segment's tab lands in its neighbour's socket, so end face meets end face and the bodies close a full circle. The inside faces are cut so their flats sit exactly on the nominal circle, never inside it, because a form that measures under is a form the glass will not fit.

You do not pick a piece list. You say the smallest and largest round you want and the kit is solved from that, in 50 mm steps. Each circle is split into as many segments as your printer's bed calls for, so a big round arrives in more pieces rather than not arriving at all.

Metric or imperial, and both interchange with the straight kit — same joint, same 15 mm width, same 4.5 mm thickness, so a curve clips onto a bar. Every segment carries its own diameter, engraved deep enough to take a second color.

The case is sized from the kit it has to hold, with a hinge that prints in place and comes off the plate working.

Highlights

You set the range, not the parts

Say the smallest and largest round you build and the kit is solved from it, in 50 mm steps.

The inside diameter is exact

The arcs are faceted so their flats sit tangent to the nominal circle — a 100 mm round measures 100.000, never under. Verified by ray-casting the assembled ring.

Clips onto the straight kit

Same clip, same 15 mm band, same 4.5 mm thickness, so curves and bars snap together into one layout.

Engraved diameters, two-color ready

Every segment is labelled 0.8 mm deep with a matching flush inlay, so the size reads at a glance.

Split to fit your printer

Each circle is divided into as many segments as your bed can take, so the big rounds still print.

Case sized to the kit

A hinged case solved from the pieces it holds, with a print-in-place hinge.

Configure & buy

In your download

  • Print-ready 3MF platesEvery part laid out on plates packed to your printer's bed and sorted by filament color — open in your slicer and go.
  • Every STLThe individual part meshes as well, if you'd rather arrange the plates yourself.
  • A parts listA manifest of every part and how many of each, so you know exactly what you're printing.
  • An assembled 3D model in your colorsThe whole thing built and colored the way you configured it — your reference while you print and put it together.

Configure your kit

Units

This sets the diameter ladder and what is engraved on each segment — 100–400 mm in 50s then 100s to 1000, or 4–16 in in 2s then 4s to 40. It interchanges with the straight kit: same clip, same 15 mm band, same 4.5 mm thickness, so a curve snaps onto a bar.

Range of rounds you want

These are inside diameters — the opening you build inside, not the outside of the ring. You get 7 complete circles, every size from the smallest to the largest — 50 mm steps up to the middle of the range, wider above it, where 50 mm stops being a difference you would notice.

Printer

Case

Every kit comes with its case, and the case is solved from the kit rather than picked — sized so the biggest arc lies down inside it with room to be put away by hand, not just to the millimetre it would fit at a perfect angle. Its hinge prints in place and comes off the plate already working.

Colors
PrimarySecondaryTertiary

The diameter engraved on each segment is a flush inlay, 0.8 mm deep with its own part — so on a multi-filament printer the numbers come out in the second color. On a single-extruder printer, print the arcs and skip the inlays: the engraving still reads.

Price: $7.00

Click “Update 3D preview” to see your rounds in 3D.
How would you like it?

Add your printer

We size every model to your printer, so we need to know how big it can print. It’ll be saved for the next person with the same machine.

These are the printable sizes — the biggest part your printer can actually make, the numbers your slicer shows as the build volume. Not the bed or the removable plate, which are usually a little bigger.

Optional — build plate and printer-stand measurements

The build plate is the removable sheet you pop prints off; it’s usually a little bigger than the printable area. A plate rack is cut to the sheet, not the bed.

A printer stand is built around your printer’s feet. Give us all four and we can build you one — or skip them and add them later. Measure the BASE — the slab it stands on — not the machine’s widest point. Gantry legs, Z columns and X arms usually overhang the base and hold up nothing.

Where to measure your printer's feet Looking down on the printer's base with the front at the bottom. A is the full width of the base across the front. B is the diameter of one foot. C is from the base's front edge back to the center of the front foot. D is from the base's side edge in to that same center. FRONT rear feet — not needed A D C B
Looking down on the base, front at the bottom.

Choose your colors

Every model on the site opens in these three. Primary is the largest surface, secondary the part that contrasts with it, and tertiary the accent — feet, trim, the parts that tie it together.