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Drawer Pull Drill Guide

Drill drawer pulls and knobs straight and at the same height on every drawer.

Hook the lip over the top of the drawer front, line the center notch up with your pencil mark, clamp it and drill. The holes land at the same height and the same distance apart on every drawer, so a run of drawers lines up from one end to the other.

The guide holes are half an inch long, so the bit cannot wander or tilt, and a groove where the lip meets the face lets the guide seat tight against an eased edge. Each guide is labeled with its spacing and distance in inches and millimeters.

FREE

Door Pull Drill Guide

Put every cabinet pull and knob in the same spot on every door, drilled straight.

Hook the lip over the edge of the door, line the center notch up with your pencil mark, clamp it and drill. The holes land the right distance from the edge and the right distance apart on every door, so a whole kitchen of pulls lines up.

The guide holes are half an inch long, so the bit cannot wander or tilt, and a groove where the lip meets the face lets the guide seat tight against an eased edge. Each guide is labeled with its spacing and distance in inches and millimeters.

FREE

Build-A-Cooler

An well-insulated cooler printed to the size you need, with your words in big letters on every side.

Takeout that rides home hot, a six-pack that stays cold, lunch with an ice pack and room for a drink: give it the inside you need and the cooler builds itself around it. Thick printed walls hold the cold, the lid seals on a ridge around the rim, and two wedge clips latch it shut. Carry it by a handle on the lid, a fold-down handle on each side, or both.

Every side can carry a word in big raised letters, and the badge on the lid prints in three colors on a multicolor printer.

Print using PETG, ABS or other hydrophobic material as the cooler will see steam, condensation and liquid.

$7.99FROM $49.99

Modular Spool Rack

Stack 'em high, stack 'em wide, this over-the-top system lets you build what you need.

Stackable, rackable, no supports or extra hardware, sizes much wider than your printer, leveling feet, cross-ties for support even caps for the unused rod holes. It's safe to say we went over the top on this one!

The rods tightens like a turnbuckle. Threaded pegs screw into each side plate, and every rod has a left-hand thread at one end and a right-hand thread at the other. Wind a rod on and it draws both plates in together, until both ends seat on the same turn. A cross-tie across the back keeps the bay square, caps close off the outside ends, and stacking clips lock one rack on top of another. Every part is printed — there is no hardware to buy.

It stands on leveling feet that cup the bottom of each plate; turn a knob to take up an uneven floor. Your files come plated for your printer, with the rods sized to your bed — on a smaller bed they print shorter, and short threaded extensions make up the width. Pick your colors, preview the rack in 3D, and see exactly what you will print before you buy.

If there's anything we didn’t think of, let us know!

$5.00FROM $39.99

Stained Glass Angle Jigs

The fourth form in the stained glass layout system. Take your design to a new dimension!

Our angle jigs go from 10° to 40° with a common centre, so the pieces you lay in it all rise at exactly the same angle and meet cleanly along every seam.

The whole set bolts into one stack. A post runs through the middle, a keyed head screws in underneath and a knob clamps it down on top. There is no case because there is nothing to put in one: assembled is how it lives on the shelf and how it comes out of the box. The post is cut to the same number of sides as your jigs, so every piece of glass butts squarely against one flat face.

Metric or imperial, in three sizes each. Three, four, five, six, seven or eight facets. Six is a six-petal flower; two adjacent facets of a four is a butterfly's wings; eight is a rosette. Take all seven angles, or the round numbers, or the halves — the two half-sets partition the full ladder exactly, so buying one of each completes the set with nothing duplicated.

Every jig carries its own angle embossed on two faces so it reads on a shelf.

$6.99FROM $14.99

Stained Glass Layout System - Ovals

Set the biggest oval panel you'd like to build; the kit composes every size up to it. Longest pieces sized to fit your printer.

An oval is the shape most likely to come out looking like a mistake. Freehand it and one end is fatter than the other; approximate it with arcs and the joins show as flat spots. These are the forms that hold a real one: flat segments that snap end to end into a closed ellipse you can build against, in the same 15 mm band and on the same clip as the straight bars and the round arcs.

The width is a number the rest of the system knows. Each oval breaks at its own axes, so it comes apart across the middle into two halves exactly its width apart — and those butt straight onto a half-round of the same diameter, or a straight run of the same length. An oval is not an island in the kit.

You do not pick a piece list. You choose a proportion, say the smallest and largest width you want, and the kit is solved from that. Each oval is split into as many pieces as your printer's bed calls for — four while a quarter still prints, then eight, and more on a small bed — so a big oval arrives in more pieces rather than not arriving at all.

Metric or imperial, and both interchange with the other two kits. Every piece carries its own oval's size, engraved deep enough to take a second color.

$6.99FROM $19.99

Add your printer

We size every model to your printer, so we need to know how big it can print. It’ll be saved for the next person with the same machine.

These are the printable sizes — the biggest part your printer can actually make, the numbers your slicer shows as the build volume. Not the bed or the removable plate, which are usually a little bigger.

Optional — build plate and printer-stand measurements

The build plate is the removable sheet you pop prints off; it’s usually a little bigger than the printable area. A plate rack is cut to the sheet, not the bed.

A printer stand is built around your printer’s feet. Give us all four and we can build you one — or skip them and add them later. Measure the BASE — the slab it stands on — not the machine’s widest point. Gantry legs, Z columns and X arms usually overhang the base and hold up nothing.

Where to measure your printer's feet Looking down on the printer's base with the front at the bottom. A is the full width of the base across the front. B is the diameter of one foot. C is from the base's front edge back to the center of the front foot. D is from the base's side edge in to that same center. FRONT rear feet — not needed A D C B
Looking down on the base, front at the bottom.

My printers

Every model is sized to the printer doing the printing, and the logo and engraved sizes come as color inlays only where you can print them. The one at the top is the one new configurations start on — pick any row to make it that.

Adding one is the same picker: choose it in My Printer, or .

Choose your colors

Every model on the site opens in these three. Primary is the largest surface, secondary the part that contrasts with it, and tertiary the accent — feet, trim, the parts that tie it together.