Big Macks 3D

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Modular Spool Rack

Stack 'em high, stack 'em wide, this over-the-top system lets you build what you need.

Stackable, rackable, no supports or extra hardware, sizes much wider than your printer, leveling feet, cross-ties for support even caps for the unused rod holes. It's safe to say we went over the top on this one!

The rods tightens like a turnbuckle. Threaded pegs screw into each side plate, and every rod has a left-hand thread at one end and a right-hand thread at the other. Wind a rod on and it draws both plates in together, until both ends seat on the same turn. A cross-tie across the back keeps the bay square, caps close off the outside ends, and stacking clips lock one rack on top of another. Every part is printed — there is no hardware to buy.

It stands on leveling feet that cup the bottom of each plate; turn a knob to take up an uneven floor. Your files come plated for your printer, with the rods sized to your bed — on a smaller bed they print shorter, and short threaded extensions make up the width. Pick your colors, preview the rack in 3D, and see exactly what you will print before you buy.

If there's anything we didn’t think of, let us know!

$5.00FROM $39.99

Stained Glass Angle Jigs

The fourth form in the layout system, and the first that leaves the page. The others set where an edge goes; these set how far it stands up.

Every other form in this system answers the same question: where does the edge of the panel go. These answer the one that leaves the page — how far does each piece stand up. A jig is a shallow polygonal funnel with flat facets falling to a common centre, so the pieces you lay in it all rise at exactly the same angle and meet cleanly along every seam.

The number on the jig is the angle the glass actually sits at. Not the cone angle, not the fold between pieces — the dip of the facet, which is what a protractor laid along a petal reads. On six facets those differ by fifteen percent, so it is worth being exact about which one you are buying.

The whole set bolts into one stack. A post runs through the middle, a keyed head screws in underneath and a knob clamps it down on top. There is no case because there is nothing to put in one: assembled is how it lives on the shelf and how it comes out of the box. The post is cut to the same number of sides as your jigs, so every piece of glass butts squarely against one flat face.

Metric or imperial, in three sizes each. Three, four, five, six, seven or eight facets. Six is a six-petal flower; two adjacent facets of a four is a butterfly's wings; eight is a rosette. Take all seven angles, or the round numbers, or the halves — the two half-sets partition the full ladder exactly, so buying one of each completes the set with nothing duplicated.

Every jig carries its own angle embossed on two faces, proud rather than engraved, so it reads on a shelf and prints without a pocket to fill.

$6.99FROM $14.99

Vertical Laptop Stand

A vertical stand built from your laptop's own measurements — not a size that nearly fits.

Most vertical stands come in small, medium and large, which means yours either rattles in the slot or has to be forced into it. This one is cut for the machine it holds: type in the three measurements and every dimension of the stand is derived from them.

Three clip together parts, no screws, no glue.

Free. Configure it, turn it round in 3D, and download it.

Add an embossed or 3-color logo and help us get the word out!

FREE

Add your printer

We size every model to your printer, so we need to know how big it can print. It’ll be saved for the next person with the same machine.

These are the printable sizes — the biggest part your printer can actually make, the numbers your slicer shows as the build volume. Not the bed or the removable plate, which are usually a little bigger.

Optional — build plate and printer-stand measurements

The build plate is the removable sheet you pop prints off; it’s usually a little bigger than the printable area. A plate rack is cut to the sheet, not the bed.

A printer stand is built around your printer’s feet. Give us all four and we can build you one — or skip them and add them later. Measure the BASE — the slab it stands on — not the machine’s widest point. Gantry legs, Z columns and X arms usually overhang the base and hold up nothing.

Where to measure your printer's feet Looking down on the printer's base with the front at the bottom. A is the full width of the base across the front. B is the diameter of one foot. C is from the base's front edge back to the center of the front foot. D is from the base's side edge in to that same center. FRONT rear feet — not needed A D C B
Looking down on the base, front at the bottom.

My printers

Every model is sized to the printer doing the printing, and the logo and engraved sizes come as color inlays only where you can print them. The one at the top is the one new configurations start on — pick any row to make it that.

Adding one is the same picker: choose it in My Printer, or .

Choose your colors

Every model on the site opens in these three. Primary is the largest surface, secondary the part that contrasts with it, and tertiary the accent — feet, trim, the parts that tie it together.